New Texturizing Solutions

There are two four-letter words in hairdressing: bang and perm. When it comes to perms “We now say ‘body’ or ‘movement’ or ‘texture'. Whatever you choose to call them—texturizers, waves or perms—the technology has come a long way.

Demand is on the rise as texture has become increasingly fashionable. The whole process of creating curl has changed dramatically from the days of strong chemicals, perm rods and end papers.


In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt invented the cold wave. It used no machines and no heat. Hair was wrapped on rods and a reduction lotion containing ammonium thioglycolate was applied, breaking open the disulfide linkages between the polypeptide bonds in the keratin (the protein structure) in the hair. The disulfide bonds give hair its elasticity, and can be reformed with chemicals. Next, an oxidation lotion was applied, (hydrogen peroxide), to close the disulfide bridges again and the hair was reformed to the shape of the rod. The entire process took six to eight hours at room temperature.

A Kinder, Gentler Perm
The new generation of perms are much gentler, with lower pH and low ammonia. The application also has changed a lot from using perm rods and end papers. Today’s tools are flexible and soft offering a wider variety of shapes and size of wave or no tools at all. Freehanding pin curls and processing those is a good idea. You can do just about anything you want. There is so much variety now, and that carries over to the textural spectrum.It’s not just about different cuts and color today. It’s about being able to create and control different textures in any kind of hair.

Things to know about perms
A quick guide to perm terms.

* Root Perm: The root perm adds volume at the root of the hair to give lots of body. It’s also perfect for already permed hair that’s looking for a little pick-me-up. Because only the roots are treated, it saves the rest of the locks from another treatment.
* Body Wave Perm: Creating big, bouncy curls, the body wave is for curl lovers who want a more modern look. Because this perm uses larger perm rods than traditional perms, the length of your client’s hair will determine how curly it will be: the shorter, the curlier.
* Weave Perm: Because you’re curling only partial sections of the hair, the weave perm will give your client a fusion look with both textured and straight pieces in her hair.
* Stack Perm: The stack perm is made for women who have a one-length cut. The treatment creates soft, layered curls for a natural look and is achieved by the use of differently sized rollers to the middle and bottom sections of the hair. The top is typically left fl at to look more natural.
* Acid Perm: While it sounds harsh, the acid perm is actually gentler than the traditional alkaline perm as it has a lower pH level. It is specifically made for those with sensitive, fragile, or damaged hair.
* Exothermic Perm: Referring to the gentle, internal heat that is characteristic of this treatment, the exothermic perm speeds up the processing time. The heat allows the lotion to absorb quickly into the hair, conditioning and strengthening the cuticle from the inside.